Monday, February 10, 2014

The Long History Of Jodhpurs

By Jerri Perry


Most of us know jodhpurs mainly as riding pants and actually may have thought they'd disappeared from the scene. The distinctive flared pants were once familiar sights in the hunt field, at military and police headquarters, and on Hollywood movie sets. Today, however, styles have changed and the long riding pants are now form-fitting.

What became known as the jodhpur pant was loose at the hip and thigh, tight below the knee, and extended to the ankle. This style was traditional male garb in the orient and well-suited to riding, with freedom of movement for hip and thigh and a snug fit at the legs to give a good grip and minimize chafing. Modern stretch pants can give freedom of movement without the flare, which is why that distinctive look has disappeared.

The distinctive pant spread to England in the late 19th century, when Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur brought his polo team over for the Queen's Jubilee and won many contests. The Indian team wore their traditional riding pants, which caught on with novelty-loving, trend-following English players. They came up with breeches, which had a flared hip but stopped at mid-calf and were worn with tall boots, rather than the low shoes worn in India.

The English adaptation became the norm for formal equestrian wear in England and then in the rest of the world, especially as women began to abandon the sidesaddle and ride astride. Perceived as upper-class wear, it became a symbol of military and police authority as well, being used in many uniforms. Hollywood movie directors liked to strut around in them, too.

Full-length pants are good for children, because they grow too fast to make buying high boots practical. Instructors also say that this style of riding pant lets them see the position of the leg, thus helping children learn the correct position. The riding world is fairly strict on etiquette, and many horse enthusiasts prefer to see children dressed in jodhpurs even if money is no object.

The long pants can be used with half-chaps or leggings, which cover the lower keg and strap under the paddock boot. This helps prevent rubbing against the stirrup leathers and give a neat look to a rider when mounted. The practice of wearing informal clothes for training and exercising saves expensive, highly-polished tall boots from excessive wear.

A jodhpur pant is made with seams on the outside, to minimize leg irritation, and a reinforced knee panel to help the rider grip the saddle. Some also have seat patches of leather suede or some other non-slip material. Many modern styles feature complete seat and inner leg insets. New fabrics enable four and five-way stretch construction to give maximum comfort to the mounted rider; these non-binding fabrics have led to the loss of the traditional flare. Todays styles are form-fitting from waist to ankle.

Beige and white are the traditional colors, but colored and patterned jodhpurs are available for for fun and informal occasions. Saddleseat competition calls for dark-colored jods with flared cuffs that cover the heel of the rider's boots. Go online for all the new styles and features of this century-old style.




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